Day 30: Havana 2.0

January 2, 2019

The day should start with a good breakfast, which is exactly what I did.

It's a really cold day. It's 18 degrees Celsius; it's winter here. I'm going to Candelaria Park, 5 km away, to update my website. I see people wearing toques (toques). I head back to my room, another 5 km with the wind in my face—it's tough. I pack my things and head towards the Soroa waterfalls; I hope they'll be beautiful this time. The road is very mountainous; I have a feeling it's going to be a difficult day.

I'm not disappointed this time.

It's too cold for swimming, we'll do it another time. This is the kind of place I wish I could go to in Quebec.

I continue on my way; it's really difficult. I have to get off my bike to climb the hills. It's at this moment that I wish I could have shifted gears on the front chainring...

The road is quite monotonous; it's in the countryside and there's nothing, absolutely nothing. I arrive at Las Terazas, but there's nothing special to see.

I continue along a small road and discover another place with small waterfalls.

I'm taking the opportunity to go for a swim; it's midday and warmer than this morning. I'm also taking the opportunity to have a little something to eat.

I met two French people from Brittany. They will be in Cuba for 20 days.

I get back on the road, but it's a rocky track. I drive for about 15 minutes on this shortcut that leads to the highway.

Once on the highway, I see that I'm 55km from Havana. The road is really long and flat. I meet a lady from New Zealand, chat with her for a bit, and continue on my way.

After the promised 55 km, I realize I still have 25 km to go to reach Old Havana. I'm exhausted! Time is also running out, as it's starting to rain and night is falling. Here's the embassy district...the houses are enormous. It feels like I'm walking through an upscale neighborhood in Hollywood.

The next moment I find myself in a scene straight out of The Walking Dead, a completely dilapidated neighborhood. This is Havana, with all its contrasts. I pass by Revolution Square.

Sorry for the clichés, but night is approaching, it's 6:00 PM. I need to find a place to spend the night. I arrive in the old quarter, it's magnificent.

I go back to Merced Street, the place where I spent a lovely night. I knock on the door and speak to Pepe. Unfortunately, both rooms are already occupied. He calls his neighbors and tells me there's a room available. I go to check it out; it's quite ordinary. The price is 35 CUC. I try to negotiate down to 25 CUC, but the woman won't budge. I pretend to leave, hoping she'll change her mind, but she'd rather not rent her room than pay 25 CUC. I walk around, trying to find a place to stay. I ring a doorbell, but there are no rooms available. I'm starting to find the day rather long. I see another house called Jesus y Maria, and I place my hopes in it. I hope there will be a room! I finally find a room for 35 CUC; I'm so tired.